Umami-rich squid is stuffed with more umami in the form of chorizo and than baked. Creating a deeply flavoured, absolutely delicious dish that is perfect with rice to soak up the sauce.

Using one pan to quickly fish fillets and samphire is so fast and effortless it makes any effort the sauce takes seem as nothing. Not that it does take much effort. This is a light, delicious meal for a summer’s day. Serve with boiled or steamed new potatoes that will also lap up the buttery sauce.

It’s easy to forget that summer’s rhubarb can be as lovely in savoury dishes as sweet ones. In this salad with cucumber and a sweet honey marinade it is the perfect foil for oily fish such as mackerel or - as here - salmon. In the time it takes the salmon to roast I would boil some new potatoes too, to serve alongside.

This is a fabulously flavoursome and hearty stew for a chillier evening.  Do ask the fishmonger to clean and prep the squid for you, so it is ready to cook with - you will need the tentacles but ask for their inedible beak to be removed. 

Wild plums are too tart and acidic for eating raw but these qualities make them ideal for jams and sauces. Think of this sauce as being akin to a Chinese plum sauce - sweetly spiced and fruity. It is made in two stages to allow the opportunity to test its sweetness and gauge how much to reduce the sauce. 

It is served here with some simply cooked fresh mackerel, but would also be lovely as a dipping sauce for deep-fried prawns, ribs, or duck.